On the move!

Early morn in St. Augustine

 We left St. Augustine at an early hour and you can see how calm it was. It made for interesting reflections on the water of the boats and the lights from the Bridge of Lions.


Looking to the east from our boat we got the beautiful sunrise with the interesting definite edge of the darker clouds reflecting in the water as well.

Sunrise at St. Augustine

Flowers beautifying Fernandina streets.

We motored to Fernandina Beach where we decided to stay two nights on a mooring ball.  We always enjoy this town looking at the shops and just going for walks to see such sights as these pretty flowers along the sidewalk at one corner and the cute church across the street.  We were a bit disappointed in finding our favorite Pizza Restaurant not open on Tuesday so we went to the fish market and got some shrimp to cook on board.  It's healthier any way!


We hopped over to Cumberland Island the next day to wait for better wind conditions to head out in the ocean.  We enjoyed our usual hike on this beautiful island.  I got a great shot of the wild horses and the ruins of Dungeoness all in one.

They don't look very wild here.

 We left Cumberland the next morning to head out the inlet to come in at Charleston.  We were hoping the weather guru was correct, that the ENE winds would clock around and become SE.  Well they did, just after motor sailing for 24 hours as we entered  Charleston Inlet! The one good thing of our trip in the ocean were once again the dolphins that came around sunset to give us a show.  I finally got a super shot of one leaping out of the water!

What a sight!

As we headed in the inlet the race boats were heading out for it was Charleston Race Week.

One of the many racing boats heading out from Charleston Harbor.

Al in socks, shoe, fleece and long pants for the first time since the fall.

 We decided that we did not want to deal with all that activity and so headed up the ICW to anchor in a creek.  Well, we passed three creeks that we thought we might stop at.  The current and winds were so favorable for moving up the ICW that we just kept going for another 6 hours.  We finally anchored in the great spot of Minum Creek which was perfect for the front predicted to come through.  And it did come through with lots of rain cleaning our salt encrusted boat for which we were thankful.  But with that front came the plunging temperatures.  We went from shorts and sleeveless to long pants and fleece and this was in South Carolina! 

We headed into Georgetown, SC to get out of the 30 knot winds.  Luckily the winds changed to the north which made the harbor a perfect spot to be.  We stayed two days and enjoyed a great meal at a new place in town called the Krazy Fish on the main street.  It is a casual kind of eclectic place with a very interesting menu.  My lightly pan fried catfish with a light lemon cilantro glaze over rice was fantastic with an interesting salad and veggies.  Al had a shrimp sausage combination which was also delicious.  The owner and waiter could not have been more accommodating.  The price was reasonable and we both took doggie bags with us. We will be back on the next trip!

We left in 30 knot winds but once through Winyah Bay it was not bad in the Wacamaw River we we pulled in to Osprey Marina for two nights.  It had been down into the low forties at night, so being able to plug in was a real treat.  It was the first time to stay at a marina since last November! It is in the middle of nowhere but  an Italian restaurant called Scatori's will pick you up and bring you back so we decided to try it for a late lunch.  There is a great grocery store next door which you can shop before you are driven back.  The restaurant also had fantastic food.  I have never seen Al eat so much bread using it to eat every last bit of the spaghetti sauce!  Needless to say, I did not have to make dinner that night.  Yeah!

Well protected and clean marina!

Also besides being well protected and a very clean marina,  I should mention Osprey has some of the lowest fuel prices on the ICW.  It is a gem in the middle of nowhere!


We are now passing Myrtle Beach and will be in Wrightsville Beach, NC. in a day or two hoping the weather warms up again!

Birds, Bridges, Bikes and Bistro

We left Vero as planned but not before having Blair and Mary from Strathspey for dinner on Blue Heaven.  It was great visiting with them again and hearing about their visit to Cuba (They are Canadians and so can go there legally!). 

Riverside Cafe in Vero Beach

We also visited the Riverside Café one more time with Curt and Kathy from Five and Dime.  Can’t beat their Happy Hour prices and Fish Taco!  Another night we had dinner on Five and Dime with Tilt and Discovery.  Afterwards we played the game “Sequence” and it was a close match between the sexes but the men pulled it out this time.

Saying goodbye to Five & Dime

We said our goodbyes to Kathy and Curt our mooring partners and motor sailed most of the morning. 

The wind picked up and we were then able to sail a nice gentle sail to Cocoa.  I got to do some rug hooking, so it was my kind of sail.  You can see I started a Christmas pattern which I had purchased before I left.  I knew I did not have time to design another one, so I do purchase patterns once in a while.

Another rug hooking project I started.

The next day we also got to sail to Titusville and there we picked up a mooring  after going through several bridges which had some welcoming committees there to greet us.  How about this cormorant drying his wings and scratching his back at the same time! 

Welcoming Committees at most bridges.

  

One talented cormorant!

The new "Cruiser's Caravan" at Titusville Marina.

After lunch we used Titusville's new “Cruiser’s Caravan” to go to Publix for groceries and Napa for oil and filters.  The van’s first use was Monday and this was Wednesday so it was bright and shiny and smelled brand new.  We had read about it on Active Captain, that eighteen business went together to buy the van to attract more cruisers to the Titusville area.  What a change because so many communities are fighting to keep us from anchoring in Florida.  We are welcomed in Titusville so show your support!

  

 The next day we sailed again (this has been unusual sailing so much in the ICW) to Daytona area where we anchored opposite of Halifax Marina in front of this gorgeous house. 

It is a house, not a hotel!

 It was blowing quite a bit which made it a bit uncomfortable but finally the wind quieted down for the night for a good night’s sleep. 

Leaving the anchorage the next morning the bridge was opening up for us and Al came out a little too soon and ran us aground.  The bridge had to be lowered again but with Al powering up he got us to plow through and free ourselves for the next opening with two other boats.  We motored sailed and got to St. Augustine where we got one of the last few mooring balls available almost as far south in the field as you can get but we got one!  We went in for showers and a walk and then just chilled for the rest of the evening. 

Bike racers starting the race in St. Augustine.

We went in to town to find that they were having a bike race on the main street.  It was fun to watch them but this is one sport Al and I know nothing about.  Al had wanted to go to Sailor’s Exchange to see what all the talk was about among cruisers.  It was like Sailorman in Fort Lauderdale where all sorts of used parts for boats are for sale.  We spent over 1 ½ hrs. there  and got one small part, which I did without complaining even though there is nothing of interest to me, but he is patient when I go into stores so I thought it pay back time.  

Having lunch with Mary and Blair at the King's Bistro

Afterwards we met Mary and Blair at the King’s Bistro.  They had recommended it.  When Al and I first got there, we said is this it?  It did not look like much from the outside, but this was a perfect example of not judging a book by its cover.  Inside had only about ten tables but the food was delicious, the presentation great and the price reasonable.  We will definitely visit there again.  

Great food and presentation!

We said our goodbye to Mary and Blair because they are keeping their boat for the summer in Florida and heading back to Ottawa to work for a few months. 

We invited Tim and Paula from Hooligan who traveled up from the Daytona anchorage with us for drinks and got to find out what sailing on the west coast, Mexico and south was like.  They have spent the past five years there. This is their first time on the east coast so we shared our knowledge with them as well.

Sunday dawn cloudy but we lucked out without getting wet.  I visited The Cathedral Basilica, the oldest church on the east coast, for mass.  Then Al and I had a lazy day reading and going in for walks.  We are heading to Fernandina tomorrow which is a sixty some mile day so we thought we should get as much exercise as we could today.  Drizzle came around 5pm so we lucked out.  Further north they had some nasty storms.

Back in the Good Old USA

Saturday, March 30^th we were in Great Sale Cay with Sun Cat which is a usual staging place for boats to come in and then leave for the crossing to the states.

Al going to replace zincs.

Al decided it was one of his last chances to change the zincs and grease the prop, so into the water he went to do so.  It still amazes me how clear the water is that you see his legs so clearly.

He is down under the boat and look how clear it is!

It was a nice quiet anchorage so I got to kayak and  see some of the wild life along the coast in the water and on land. However, I did not have to leave the boat to see wild life because this one bird came and hopped around the boat like it owned it.  The birds must know to come out for handouts because later a second bird came.  We actually had to shoo them off because we did not want them down below or doing their business where ever they wanted.

Friendly bird came calling in Great Sale Cay.

We left the anchorage around noon.  Tom on Sun Cat decided to leave 2 hours earlier because we motor faster than Sun Cat.  Another boat named Bob Ra Anne left the anchorage the same time we did.  Their boat was a Bristol also, so we were together for practically the entire crossing.   

Blue Heaven heading into the sunset.

The winds were very light so we motored until around 11PM when the winds picked up to 15-18 knots.  We sailed through the night and got into Fort Pierce inlet around 8am.  We only got close to one ship which was the Disney Ecstasy cruise ship which was lit up like a Christmas tree.  Al called the ship to confirm that our closest point of approach would miss the ship.  The captain responded with a strong accent, “Thank you for your co-operation.”  Any time buddy, any time.  We don’t want to hit you or be hit by you!

Sun Cat went in the St. Lucie inlet because he was taking the boat across the Okeechobee waterway to a friend’s private dock.  So we said our good byes over the radio about 4am.  We headed for Fort Pierce inlet.  When we went to start the engine to come in the inlet the starter motor would not start.  Luckily, Al knew how to jump the engine battery from the house battery and in we went.  We motored up to Vero Beach and got a mooring ball for awhile.  We need to decompress and catch our breath after the last two weeks.  Also, everyone at home says it still way too cold to head north.  So when we finally decide to leave we will probably go slowly because Al hates the cold.

We took our first showers off the boat since December.  We both just let the water run on us for at least 30 minutes.  Aaaaaaah.  It felt so good!  We went with some friends to Riverside restaurant’s happy hour and met some new cruisers, as well as this friendly pelican who would barely even move so we could get on the dock.  

Our welcoming committee at Riverside.

 Another day we went grocery shopping and it was like sensory overload with all the selections.  It was wonderful to see hearts of Romaine lettuce for less than seven dollars!

We celebrated Al’s April 2nd birthday on Blue Heaven with Cathy and Curt on Five and Dime who are tied up with us on the mooring ball and Chris and Craig on Tilt.  We had a good time and good meal and of course birthday cake.  I don’t think my mind is still functioning well because I somehow forgot to take pictures.  Why, I don’t know.

We have pulled the folding bikes out and have done some biking down to the beach.  It is a bit different looking beach than in the Bahamas with lots more people and condos and homes along it.  

A bit different kind of beach than those in the Bahamas.

 This town is one of my favorites so I am ready to explore some more.  It looks like I will have time because Al ordered a new antennae for the AIS.  Delivery date is next Monday so we will probably be here at least until next Tuesday.

Going Through the Abacos

This past week has been a difficult one dealing with the untimely death of our friend.  I do want to give a big public thank-you to Jenn and Andrew who manage Exuma Land and Sea Park at Warderick Wells.  They could not have been more helpful, from the calls they made to Judy and Tom, managers on Bell Island that got us the boat, helicopter and sea plane to send Pat and Tom to Nassau and to bring Tom back to his boat at Warderick Wells, to helping us communicate with Tom and all the support they gave.  We also want to thank the anonymous owner of Bell Island for the use of all his transportation.

Everyone could not have been more supportive. 

Before we left Warderick Wells while waiting for Tom to return from Nassau, I told Al that we had to go for a hike.  I was afraid if I did not do it right a way, I might be scared to hike again.  As they say, if you fall off a horse, get right back on again, and that is what I wanted to do.  I got this picture which shows you just how beautiful the area is, but also shows the iron rock that we hike many times along the waters edge.  I am glad we went because it is beautiful.

Warderick Wells  view from a peak.

Al and I helped Tom get his boat to Marsh Harbor this week where his son has now flown in to help him get his boat across to Florida so they can then get to Pat’s memorial service on April 6^th.  Unfortunately, the weather isn’t cooperating very well, but we hope to cross possibly this weekend.  We decided to join them in the crossing because we feel the fun has gone out of cruising the Bahamas for this winter.  Time will heal but it has been hard to get back to normalcy for both of us.

On our trip from Rock Sound to Royal Island this week, we got a call on the VHF from Island Spirit with Radeen and Hayden, who are from our marina in Maryland. They were traveling the same way a little ahead of us.  It was a very gentle sailing day and they asked if we would like fresh baked bread.  Just the half an hour earlier I had commented to Al that we were getting low on bread.  They made the bread under sail and after we went through Current Cut

Do you see why they call it Current Cut?

they were anchored on the shore just east of the cut. 

Hayden and Radeen bakery delivery. 

They pulled up in their dinghy to our boat while under sail bringing us not only the fresh baked bread, but double chocolate brownies with cherries and walnuts.  And even four slices of warm bread to eat along the way.  YUM! 

What delicious goodies and even the recipe!

 It was just the comfort food we needed and what service!  We could not thank them enough.

The boat got a good washing this day.

We have been sitting in Marsh Harbor for three days now after stopping in Rock Sound, Royal Island and Little Harbor this past week.  One day we had winds 28-30 knots  and gully washing rains and never left the boat.    

Yesterday we did get out to walk, and found the other side of the island where there is a resort and marina called Abaco Beach Resort and Harbour Marina. 

Abaco Beach Resort

It is a nice resort but did not seem very crowded for being Easter Week and Spring Break.  The marina is huge but not many boats were there.  I guess it is the sign of the economic conditions in the US and other countries.  

Fairly empty marina.

After hearing the weather reports today, we are going to move out through a cut called The Whale and probably to Turtle Cay tomorrow if the conditions permit.  Then on to Great Sail Cay and cross over to Ft. Pierce this weekend.  So you will not be hearing from us for awhile until after recuperating from the crossing and getting back to the American way of life.

Tragedy Strikes in Paradise

The group reading about the Pirates Lair

 We did sail with Sun Cat the few miles to Capture Beach and picked up mooring balls as planned.  We decided to hike the trails here which we had never done before.  Right off the beach where we landed there was this marvelous swing seat someone had made from netting, rope and a perfect tree limb. 

Pat enjoying the swing.

 We each had to take a photo opt there.  Following the trail we came to a neat area called the Pirates Lair.  It is a spot that pirates used to hide from people.  It even had a natural well.

Onward we trekked through some very rough terrain following the trails.  We had all commented how the rocks were very precarious and that we had to be careful.  We made it to a few beaches where Pat and I are always looking for treasures but knowing this Land and Sea Park is a no take zone, we were just window shopping!  The four of us debated whether to go back the same trail which we felt was very difficult or walk along the rocks near the beach.  It was low tide so we decided it seemed flatter along the coast and off we went.  It did not seem any worse than the trail but suddenly I heard Pat scream and I turned quickly to see her fall full force with her body onto the rocks in about a 2 ft. deep hole.  She did not have any time to even put her arms out to break the fall. She had hit her trunk of her body and head very hard. We all came quickly to her aid, but she was badly hurt.  We sent Al to get the dinghy and our VHF radio.  (We should have had it with us and we will never hike without it now.)  By the time he got back which was about 15 min. later, Pat was going unconscious.  We called for medical help through the Park Office and asking any boaters for assistance.  One gentleman on Proud Mary came with an AED machine and first aid kit.  I had started CPR when we could not get a pulse.  The AED machine said, do not shock.  We thought it meant she had a heart beat, but we learned it meant there was no heart beat so that there is no reason to shock.  It only gets an arrhythmic heart beat back to regular beats.  Finally the park people came with a stretcher and they transported her over to Bell Island by boat where they had a private helicopter take her and Tom to Nassau.  (We were lucky that there is construction on Bell Island so they have a medic and the helicopter.  The Park Managers made a few quick calls and were able to secure it or it would have taken a lot longer.)

However, all our efforts were in vain because our dear friend did not make it.  This person who was so full of life and friendly to everyone was taken by this tragic accident.  The only solace is that she was in a beautiful place doing the things she liked doing when she went with the Lord.  And I try to remember this quote:

He whom we love
and lose
is no longer
Where he was before.
He is now
wherever we are.
                                - St. John Chrysostom

Pat touched so many people in her life.  Al and I nicknamed her “The Firecracker” because she had so much energy and was the friendliest person we have ever met.  Ask any cruiser who ever came across her.  She told me just recently “Life is too short to be negative.  Enjoy life and be thankful for all you have.”  I will take that to heart and know she will always be with me wherever I am.

Pat looking for shells, one of her favorite things to do.

Pat Thorpe

1938-2013

Pat  and Tom during happier times.

Life After George Town

We left George Town on March 12^th with some rough going out of Elizabeth Harbor and some big swells but only for a short time. The rest of the sail was an “Al” sail rather than an “Arleen” sail so it was a bit uncomfortable. However, not so uncomfortable that Al could not put his rod in the water. When the first fish hit we had to take in the genny to slow down and readied the cockpit for the land. He finally landed a 35” Mahi! Then he filleted it and I got it into the refrigerator while he cleaned up the blood and gore. 

Al's First Landed Mahi

Al's Second Catch of the Day

 About two hours later he had another hit, another Mahi but this one a female the same size as the first which he also landed. Now we definitely had enough fish for a while! We shared some fish with our buddy boat Suncat once we got to Black Point where we anchored. We went into town to Scorpio’s where the cruisers gathered for Happy Hour and listened to the sailing and fishing stories.

Laundry was our duty for the next morning at Rockside Laundry which is one of the nicest laundries in the Bahamas with a small shop and she will cut hair as well! A front was to come in from the north so we moved to the other side where we had spent Christmas in Little Bay. Pat and I went beach combing and found some sea glass and a few nice shells. We hit it at low tide which is the best time. Then Pat and Tom came over for what else, but a mahi dinner. Afterwards Pat explained the Bahamian way of playing dominoes and guess who won. Me, but unfortunately we did not play for money like the Bahamians!

Regatta Park

What a view!

The next morning we visited with First Edition with whom we spent a lot of time with in December. It was nice catching up with them on what they had been doing. After defrosting the freezer and lunch, Al and I decided to walk into town to get some exercise. We entered at the west end of Black Point so I showed Al Regatta Park where there are some nice views.

The Jail at Black Point

 I had been there on our last trip but he must not have taken the walk so missed this. After looking out into the harbor with the white caps and boats rocking we were glad we had moved to Little Bay. He also got to see the police station, jail and the government clinic.

When we finally got back, we figured we had walked 6 miles so we did get exercise to work off the calories from Pat’s nachos concoction that we had at happy hour which ended up being our dinner.

The next day we sailed up to Staniel Cay anchoring off the Thunderball Grotto. That is the famous underwater cave that was seen in the James Bond movie of the same name.

Al  feeding the fish.

A type of snapper

We snorkeled the cave later in the afternoon when it was low tide and fairly slack water. It was great seeing all the fish especially when Al fed them bread crumbs. The Sergeant Majors just really swarmed him.

 Outside around the cave we saw some interesting fish and plant life as well. It definitely was worth snorkeling in this area. It was one of the best snorkeling we have done. Later that day we went over to Staniel Cay Yacht club to discuss our plans and to have a drink.

The view to Rachel's Bubble Bath

We decided to move up to the north end of Compass Cay to go to Rachel’s Bubble Bath. You go to shore and walk up through an area of sand and water until you get to a pool surrounded by rock. There is an area which is worn down and the waves from the sound side crash over and make bubbles that you can swim in.

Rachel's Bubble Bath

 

Since the temps were just barely seventy, we chose to just enjoy the site without the swim. It would have been even better if it had been high tide. However, it was a fun time with Pat and I always looking for shells or sea life along the way. These sea urchins are under water with stones stuck to them. I had never seen that before.

Sea Urchins

 
That evening we had a wonderful stuffed pork loin dinner with roasted vegetables and orzo over on Sun Cat. Ending the night with teaching them a game called Uno Rummy UP with the “newbies” winning. For some reason that doesn’t seem fair.

We plan to go to the southern end of Warderick Wells Island and pick up a mooring off of Capture Beach which is protected by Hog Cay tomorrow.