Active Life in the Abacos

Meg and Tom from Sun Cat

All went well sailing the fifty miles from the southern end of Eleuthera to the north to a place called Royal Harbor except for being “skunked” once again fishing. What a disappointment! We really did not want to move this fast through Eleuthera, but the weatherman kept saying it might be a while until another weather window would open up to get to the Abacos, so we thought we should do it while we can. Once through Current Cut which is a cut that has current as strong as 3 knots, the winds were calmer and the direction such that the boat was flat so that I prepared “Veggie Lasagna” for a meal to share with Tom and Meg on Sun Cat. We had a relaxing meal after a long day of sailing in a quiet harbor. Can't ask for much more.

The winds were favorable to continue on another long day up into the Abacos. Winds were 10-17knots and we sailed along at 6 to 7.5 knots which is good for catching fish but once again not even a nibble! We did hear of two boats that did catch some fish and our friends on Discovery and Scotch Mist who were about 2 miles ahead of us, were treated to a show of two whales cavorting in the area north of Lynyard Cay. We unfortunately did not get to see them.

We anchored off Bucaroon Point which wasn't bad but unfortunately there were some forest fires on the southern end of Great Abaco Island and the smoke was blowing toward our boat which wasn't pleasant. So the next day we headed out to sail to Marsh Harbor to wait out another front.

Once in Marsh Harbor we found out our friends on Sloop John Dee and Samana who we got to know in George Town this winter were there. It was St. Patrick's Day so we all met in town. 

The Irish had their St. Paddy"s Day Parade in Marsh Harbor

They participated in the “Shortest St. Paddy's Day Parade” while I took pictures. It was all of about two blocks. It was all cruisers who dressed in green and many with crazy St. Paddy's Day get-ups.

Look at those fancy glasses.

Some really got into it!

Some went so far as to color their hair green.

 Anyone who participated got a beer as they passed a stand for Sands Beer 

What people won't do for a free beer!

 and then everyone ended up at a bar/restaurant called Snappas who sponsored the whole thing. They had a band as well as a bag piper to entertain the crowd. As they say, “A good time was had by all!”

You can see the flags standing straight out when blowing 30 knots.

The cold front came through the next day. It blew 20-25 knots all day with gusts to 32 knots. Some rain but not a lot. The temperature dropped to the low seventies and into the sixties at night (I know, you northerners don't feel sorry for us!). I kept busy reading, hooking my rug, and working on my basket. I decided no baking if I want to keep that weight off I lost last summer.

The next day was a restocking day of food and beverage. Ron and Mercedes on Samana told us about a store in the far left corner of the harbor where I could buy fish. It actually is a seafood processing place but they have a retail/wholesale store where you can get fish, lobster, stone crabs, meats and many other types of bulk groceries. The fish has all been flash frozen on the boat so it is fresh and so I finally was able to get red snapper and some grouper. If the man don't bring it in, then the "wifey" must buy it at the store!!!

That evening we went to the Jib Room with friends, John and Denise, for their Wednesday night buffet with a choice of ribs, chicken or fish. 

Two members of the audience play the saw along with the musicians.

They also have a version of Rake 'n Scrape and the Limbo. The audience participates in both, but there is a Bahamian who really shows off with the Limbo.

Doing the Limbo while carrying a woman.  Now I'd say he is quite fit!

He carries a female while going under and he goes under with it lit on fire and inches off the floor. He is quite amazing.

He even lights his cigarette while going through!

Finally a calm day, but so calm that we motored across to Guana Cay, a place we had never visited.

We were there to experience the “Barefoot Man” concert at Nippers, one of the two well known restaurants there. The other is called Grabbers. Both are fun places to be. We came in a day early to get a spot to anchor because this concert is visited by so many cruisers. We walked to Nippers to get a lay of the land.

 

Nipper's the day before the concert.

 It is this colorful restaurant on the gorgeous beach on the ocean side. Not only do they have a bar and restaurant but also a pool for their customers to enjoy. 

 

The long white beach off of Nippers.

Nicely maintained Grabbers Bar and Grill

The settlement had only two shops but was surprised by the nice grocery store on the island. Small compared to those in the states but large compared to stores on the smaller cays. We stopped to enjoy a beverage at Grabbers. It is in the cove where we came ashore in our dinghy, called Fisher's Bay.  What a beautiful spot.  Pool, bar, restaurant and rooms for guests and they welcome cruisers.  I have been good about not imbibing in much alcohol but I could not resist their specialty drink which was a frozen rum concoction.  It was delicious especially since I was so thirsty but lets just say Arleen had to take a little nappy on the boat when we returned!  It was quite a "grabber."

It can be peaceful during day, but it hops at night at Grabbers.

Around noon the following day we met John and Denise at Grabbers and then walked to Nippers where things were hopping! Lots more people than yesterday enjoying the food, drink and music.

The famous "Barefoot Man"

Barefoot Man's band started playing around 1PM and he eventually came on and sang lots of his fun songs and got the crowd going. He is a very short man which surprised me.  I thought he was sitting down, but found out he was standing!
 

The crowds enjoying the music.

 

Even Pepper, Ron and Mercedes dog found things delicious!

I found Meg and Tom around the pool enjoying the Barefoot Man.

Mercedes and Denise enjoying the day.

A little busier than the day before!

It reminded me of a college party without the chugging of beer and getting out of control. There were all ages from tots, teens, college students, adults and “The Wise Ones.”

 
Later that evening Mercedes and Ron on Samana had us over to sample lion fish. Lionfish are the fish that have invaded the Western Atlantic, Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico. We have seen lionfish when we snorkeled.  It is believe that it started by an individual who disposed of a lionfish from his aquarium because it got to big or was eating all his fish. That is the reason they are not good for the environment because they eat all the other fish. They actually tell people to kill any lionfish they see while spear fishing. The interesting thing is people think they are poisonous. However, the truth is they are venomous. They inject venom through their dorsal, pelvic and anal spines if they puncture you. So Ron has learned how to catch them and get rid of the nasty parts. The meat is delicious! Mercedes made a tempura batter and deep fried it. The meat was a very white buttery meat similar but better than flounder. So in one day we had two new firsts; seeing the Barefoot Man and tasting lionfish. What a day!          
                                     It looks pretty but stay away from the spines.

Photo of a lionfish from National Geographic .

We then sailed to Hope Town which is a favorite spot for boaters. Many boaters were heading west to get through Whale Cut since the weather was good, so we decided there might be some open moorings in Hope Town. It is a tight harbor and you cannot anchor there. We were correct. There were about three open when we got there. Wouldn't you know Al picks the one that he finds out says reserved on it after we hooked on. So quickly we released and got the next one. Luckily there were no other boats coming in when we were, so it wasn't a race for the ball. 
 

Cute cottages  and stores.

 We walked the cute settlement with flowers blooming all around and the brightly colored cottages and narrow streets. 

 

The Hope Town Lighthouse

 Traveling the island is by golf carts which reminded me of Bald Head Island, NC. You can walk to the beach, snorkel off the beach, visit the lighthouse, shop the stores or visit many of the various restaurants in town. Some people come and spend the entire winter on a mooring ball in Harbor Island. 

 Al and I walked the north end of the island where many of the houses, large or small are for rent. 

 

We even found one called Blue Heaven if you look closely at the sign.

So this is where Rudolph spends the rest of winter and spring.

We came across a wild life sanctuary which was identified by a sign and friendly reindeer. It was a lovely walk and we could see the Hope Town sailing club races going on out in the sound. 

 

Dinghy and sunfish races in the sound.

 Once back in town I saw a sign for Sunday Mass at 12:30PM. I attended it which was at the small park out in the open. The priest comes in by ferry from Marsh Harbor to do it every Sunday. It was interesting having a jungle gym, sailboats and the harbor as the altars backdrop. Later we enjoyed dinner at the Harbors Edge with some new acquaintances, Steve and Michele, on John Ray.

We are now back in Marsh Harbor to wait out this next front. I just had to stop typing to help reset the anchor because he thought we were dragging in the 20-22 knot winds. This is the life of living on board a boat!  Moments of calm and moments of sheer terror!  Well, not really terror this time.